Grand Teton Climbing Deaths

29 of July 2010

The day before starting my little backpack into the Thorofare Area of Yellowstone I was in Grand Teton National Park. The day before I arrived was a rather brutal weather day with rain, thunderstorms, lightning and fatalities in the high mountains.
By the end of the day 16 were helecoptered off the Grand, some with injuries sustained from near lightning strikes. Two very unfortunate climbers died as a result of falls. Both were 21 years old, a male and a female. Climbing does not pick favorites as to who shall live and who shall die. Make a mistake and you will pay.
In a comment on this entry I was made aware that one of the fatalities happened before the storm that trapped the other climbers. I am not sure which individual it was but I will research this and write a more complete account. The information in this account was obtained in the first hours after the rescue was completed.
While I feel very sorry for the fatalities I wonder why few if any looked at the weather report when they went up that day. A 40% chance of thunderstorms was predicted. When I climb on single day trips I always checked the weather. In the summer I am on the ground when the clouds cover the skies. Anything at, near or close to the summit is called a lightning rod. That includes climbers festoned with metal gear hanging from beltloops or a chest sling.
Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport, you know that gravity thing is always working against you. Why not put the odds in your favor as much as possible? Talking with both climbing and non climbing rangers, the concensus was to think this a tragic accident. Somewhat true! But what about your personal level of responsibility to protect your own life by completely preparing for your days, weeks or months activities.
I have been close to a long dirt nap on more than a few occasions. Never for missing a weather forecast or on a trip of less than a couple of weeks long. Stuff happens! But how can it happen on a two day climb and be caused by weather that was predicted?
Life is short already and it can become shorter by a lack of preparation. If any lessons are to be learned from these circunstances let it be to prepare completely for each day that you are above ground. A dirt nap is just around the corner if you do not.

2 Comments »

  1. The first death happened the evening prior to the storm and was not weather related. FYI

    Comment by Penny — July 29, 2010 @ 6:08 pm

  2. I was not aware that the first death was not weather related. My Park Service contacts, at the early time in the investigation, implied that they were all weather related. I will be getting a more up to date analysis as the investigation proceeds.
    Some people seem to believe that I assess blame on the climbers for thier neglect in proper planning. Mountains can be variable friends, sometimes smiling on you and other times not so much. As climbers we are required to be diligent in our planning and execution of a plan. But even the best plans fail and we perish. Cost of the game we play. As a 35 year climber with many first ascents in the Sierra and JT I have seen my fair share of epics, some that almost caused me to enjoy a long dirt nap. But my climbing star seems to fine fair conditions to survive, others have not been as lucky.
    Ultimately no blame is to be assessed just a complete look at the particulars and the results.

    Thank you for the information Penny.

    Comment by Mingo Morvin — July 29, 2010 @ 8:44 pm

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